Ricette, ieri e oggi | eatparade
For this test, we chose to compare two recipes with similar ingredients: the “Asparagus in the white sauce in La Varenne”, François Pierre de la Varenne, and “Egg yolk marinated”, Carlo Cracco.
Both are present in the egg yolks and the asparagus: the first asparagus are the main ingredient, while in the second are accompanying.
François Pierre de la Varenne, born in 1615 in Burgundy, and was the author of Le Cuisinier françois (1651), one of the most influential cookbooks early modern French cuisine in the seventeenth century there was a culinary revolution, which were abandoned flavors heavily spiced the medieval kitchen, to make room for natural flavors. Spices, were replaced by herbs, parsley, bay leaf, sage and were introduced to new vegetables such as cauliflower, asparagus, peas. In addition, special attention was given to the cooking of the meat, and the freshness of vegetables and fish.
Carlo Cracco, born in 1965 in Creazzo, Vicenza. He collaborated with Gualtiero Marchesi and 2001, it opens the restaurant Cracco-Peck, who with his arrival the restaurant has earned two Michelin stars, 18.5 / 20 for the ‘Espresso and 3 Gambero Rosso forks. In 2007 he was named one of the 50 best restaurants in the world. In 2013, it manages the type of cuisine of Charles and Camilla in Sawmill in Milan several times a consultant for Trussardi alla Scala in Milan, 1 star. And ‘one of the three judges of the famous reality show Masterchef Italy, has worked since 2012 with Singapore Airline which deals with the creation of menus for business and first class; in 2013 he collaborates with Trenitalia signing the menu for the Executive Class Train Arrow and from 2014 is the new judge of the talent show Hell’s Kitchen Italian. Finally, Cracco was appointed Ambassador of the Lombardy Region for Expo2015.
“ASPARAGUS IN WHITE SAUCE” LA VARENNE:
Ingredients: Asparagus, egg yolk, vinegar, salt, nutmeg, butter.
Preparation: pricked stalks of asparagus so that they are all the same length, tie them into two decks and place them in the foot, with the toes upwards, four inches of boiling salted water.
Cover and simmer over low heat for a few minutes. Gently remove them from the pan, dry them, and lift up the string and keep warm.
For the sauce, pour egg yolk, vinegar, salt, nutmeg and a knob of butter in a thick-bottomed pan.
Cook over low heat, stirring slowly. United to the compound of the butter in flakes so that the sauce becomes creamy. Season with salt and pour the sauce on the asparagus pleasure or put it in a sauce boat.
“EGG YOLK MARINATED” Carlo Cracco
Ingredients: eggs, bunch of green asparagus, smoked salt, white onion, vegetable broth, butter, olive oil, salt, sugar.
Preparation: Mix the smoked salt and sugar. Put the egg yolks to marinate for 4-5 hours in this mixture, until the surface will become resistant. Then rinse them gently under a drizzle of cold running water.
Beat the egg whites and roll it between two sheets of baking paper oiled. Cook them in the oven heated to 150 degrees for about 10 minutes, so as to obtain a kind of network. Let cool and cut of irregular shreds.
Peel the asparagus, separate the tips and cut stems into cubes. Chop the onion.
Sautéed the asparagus stalks with half the onion and a knob of butter, moisten with a ladle of vegetable broth mixed with water and bring to cooking over high heat. In another saucepan, cook the asparagus tips briefly with the rest of the onion and one tablespoon of butter, salt and set aside. Take half of the stems and shake it in the mixer. Pass the puree through a sieve, stir in the rest of the stems and add salt. Arrange on plates mashed asparagus, tips and yolks marinated; surrounded with tiles of egg white and the gravy, then serve.
